We arrive in Marseille from above. Always.
As the train pulls into Saint-Charles station, the city begins to put on a show. Monumental staircases descend towards the sea, the sounds of scooters mingle with the cries of street vendors, and the journey begins. Two days are barely enough to grasp the contrasts of this city, but they offer an escape from everyday life, and we always return feeling a little different.
On the first morning, we walk down to Noailles, the heart of Marseille, where the Orient and the Mediterranean meet in a colourful bustle. Pyramids of spices, stalls of brightly coloured fruit and dried herbs hanging above the shops – everything here exudes excess and vitality. Buy a strong coffee in a plastic cup and lose yourself in the market and you will already be on a journey within a journey.
A few steps away, the romantic austerity of the Palais Longchamp contrasts with the density of the narrow streets. Head there in the late morning when strollers replace families. The pools reflect the light of a south that is always too generous. Here, Marseille becomes more contemplative, almost classical.
The afternoon calls for water. Depending on your mood, you can choose L’Estaque, with its cabins, panisse fries and landscapes painted by Cézanne, or Malmousque, a secluded fishing village where you can swim in a secluded cove. These places reveal a simple truth: Marseille isn’t just a place for postcards; it’s a place to experience in all its nooks and crannies.
The second day begins more gently. We cross the Cours Julien, a realm of graffiti and bohemian terraces, where we enjoy grilled octopus for lunch while watching students, musicians and dreamers pass by. Then we move on to the MUCEM, whose metal walkways offer a dizzying view of the port and the endless sea.
The evening inevitably brings us back to the Old Port. Sailboats sway in the orange light and fishermen still sell sea bream from their crates. We sit on the terrace, order a glass of white wine or pastis, and understand why travellers have been stopping here since time immemorial and never really leaving.
Forty-eight hours in Marseille is just a sketch. But, like any sketch, it contains all the essentials: raw power, imperfect beauty and overflowing energy. Two days are enough for the city to leave an indelible mark on a traveller’s memory.
